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TECH SUPPORT OR HOW TO'S

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a place to post write up's and questions
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  • Accepted Answer

    Saturday, November 21 2009, 02:35 PM - #Permalink
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    my friend found this online it has all the repair manuals for all bikes
     
    http://www.carlsalter.com/motorcycle-manuals.asp
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  • Accepted Answer

    Saturday, November 21 2009, 04:34 PM - #Permalink
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  • Accepted Answer

    Saturday, November 21 2009, 04:37 PM - #Permalink
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    If either of these is a copywrite problem please delete !

    From the top two suspension men in the industry + one other I found

    I hope you guys find this info useful

    ( this stuff is all VooDoo magic to me )
    __________________________________________________ _______________________
    From Dan Kyle
    Suspension 101 basics.
    Suspension 101

    Let me go over some basics on suspension. As if the basic stuff is not right no matter how much adjustment you do it will never work, Example it you front tire is at 10 PSI and the Rear 50 PSI do you think you can make the bike ever work right??
    But everyone knows about tire pressure, the problem is everyone does not know about suspension, and must "gurus" do not bother to explain anything, a lot of times it is because the "gurus" do NOT KNOW.
    My experience is if they cannot explain it to you, run away.

    First always adjust your spring, do not tinker with the damping adjustments until the springs are right.
    Front sag with rider 40 MM range 35 to 50MM
    Rear sag with rider 30 MM range 25 to 40 MM.
    Do not do anything until the springs and sag are right.

    Now if, like in this case you are bottoming the bike, do not rely on a zip tie to determind this, if it is bottoming you will feel it.
    The way NOT to stop bottoming, is more preload and or more compression damping, while this will slow down the dive it will make the bike ride harsh and not absorb bumps.

    The way to stop it is by raising the fork oil level.
    What does this do, the oil level does not have anything to do with the damping, as long as the fork valves are covered in oil they will work.
    What changing the oil level does is REDUCE the amount of AIR in the forks.
    Remenber as you are compressing this air the PSI is building, just like more air in your tires, the morfe the forks are compressed the higher the PSI, the stronger the air spring.

    This AIR is a powerful progressive spring, the less air the more powerful this air spring becomes. The great thing about the air spring is that is does very little in the first 75% of the fork travel, but when you approach bottoming out, this air spring acts as a second spring, holding the bike up. Without having to have a too stiff steel spring.
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  • Accepted Answer

    Saturday, November 21 2009, 04:39 PM - #Permalink
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     FROM THE BEST TEACHER IN THE BUISNESS

     
    There are technical points concerning a rider's fear of making either right or left hand turns. Many riders have this fear and it's frustrating. Scores of riders have complained to me about this with a sheepish sort of approach and "admitted" they were perplexed by it. Rightfully so, roughly 50% of their turns were being hampered by an unknown, un-categorized, seemingly unapproachable fear having no apparent source and no apparent reasoning behind it. Out of desperation for an answer riders have blamed their inability on being right or left handed, mysterious brain malfunctions and a host of other equally dead end "nonsense solutions"; nonsense because none of them answered their questions or addressed the hesitance, uncertainty and fear. Having a fear of right turns would be the worst if you lived in Kansas or Nebraska where practically the only turns worth the title are freeway on and off ramps. If you went "ramping" with your friends, "doing the cloverleaf", round and round, you'd be at the back of the pack . Anxiety on lefts would exclude you from the dirt track racing business for sure but mainly we are talking about day to day riding and any such apprehension as this (and there are others) spoils a rider's confidence, making him somewhat gun shy. There are actually three reasons why you could have this unidirectional phobia (fear) and all three contain an inordinate amount of some emotional response that runs from suspicion and distrust to mild panic and a dose of plain old anxiety dropped into the middle for good measure. By the way, if you consider yourself in this category of rider, count your blessings, many riders have bidirectional phobia and it's only by their force of will and love of freedom that they persist in their riding at all!

    First Reason

    Reason number one for this fear is that you crashed on the right or left at sometime and the relatively indelible mental scar is still on the mend but remains a more or less hidden and nagging source of irritation. The part of the mind that is concerned with survival does not easily forget and the proof is that our species still exists.

    There have no doubt been other more pressing problems along the way that have tried and tested Man in his effort to put order into his environment. The fact that the incident of a crash drops down to an obscure sub-level of awareness is not a help in this, or perhaps any other case, as it can affect our riding from there and can add an unpredictable element to our riding.

    You may gain some control over this with practice but the oddest part of it is that if one hasn't ridden for a while this apprehension of turning right or left can return in force... provided it springs from this particular source. In the technology of the mind and according to the discipline of Dianetics, these incidents are stored in what is called the Reactive Mind, for the obvious reason that one finds himself reacting to, rather than being coactive with, some circumstance. In this case, right or left turns.

    Second Reason

    In the discipline of riding technology we have the act and activity of counter-steering to contend with. Here a rider may have become confused, in a panic of some sort, and gone back to another variety of "survival response" that pressed him into turning the bike's bars in the direction he wanted to go rather than doing the correct (and backwards from other vehicle's steering) action of counter-steering. That instant of confusion has stopped many riders cold in their tracks, never to twist their wrist again and pleasure themselves with motorcycle riding.

    Turn left to go right push the right bar to go right, its the thing that eludes us in that panic situation (statistically) more commonly than anything save only the overuse and locking of the rear brake.

    When you dissect this confusion regarding the counter-steering process you see that it is possibly more devastating than the rear end lock up, even though both have the same result, the bike goes straight, and often straight into that which we were trying to avoid. Basics prevail--You can only do two things on a motorcycle, change its speed and change its direction. Confusion on counter-steering locks up the individual's senses tighter than a transmission run without oil and reduces those two necessary control factors down to one...A bad deal in anyone's book.

    Third Reason

    The third possible reason for being irrational about rights and lefts is the one that has solved it more often than not--practice. Applying the drill sergeant's viewpoint of repeatedly training the rider to practice and eventually master the maneuver is a very practical solution. I suppose this one falls under the heading of the discipline of rider dynamics. And a casual inspection of riders will show you the following: Ninety-five percent of all riders push the bike down and away from their body to initiate a turn or steering action, especially when attempting to do it rapidly. Rapidly meaning something on the order of how fast you would have to turn your bike if someone stopped quickly in front of you and you wanted to simply ride around them; or avoid a pothole or a rock or any obstacle.

    For example, a muffler falls off the car in front on the freeway at 60 m.p.h., that's eighty-eight feet per second of headway you are making down the road. Despite the fact you've left a generous forty feet between you and the car, that translates into one half second to get the bike's direction diverted, including your reaction time to begin the steering process. We're talking about a couple of tenths of a second here--right now.

    This procedure riders have of pushing the bike down and away from themselves to steer it seems like an automatic response and is most probably an attempt to keep oneself in the normally correct relationship to the planet and its gravity, namely, vertically oriented or perpendicular to the ground. This is a good idea for walking, sitting and standing--but not for riding. When you stay "on top" of the bike, pushing it under and away, you actually commit a number of riding dynamics sins. The first of which is the bad passenger syndrome."

    Bad Passenger

    Bad passengers lean the wrong way on the bike. They position themselves in perfect discord--counter to your intended lean, steering and cornering sensibilities. So do you when you push the bike away from yourself, or hold your body rigidly upright on the bike--very stately looking, very cool but ultimately it's an inefficient rider position. The most usual solution to a bad passenger's efforts to go against the bike's cornering lean angle is brow beating them and threaten "no more rides." But how do you fix this tendency in yourself?

    A bad passenger makes you correct your steering and eventually become wary of their actions and the bike's response to them. This ultimately leads to becoming tense on the bike while in turns. Pushing the bike away from yourself or sitting rigidly upright while riding solo has the same effect.

    Hung Off Upright

    Hang off style riders don't think this applies to them but it does. Many riders are still pushing the bike under themselves while hung off. Look through some race photos especially on the club and national level and you will easily see that some are still trying to be bad passengers on their own bike and countering the benefits of the hung position by trying to remain upright through the corners.

    A rider's hung-off style may have more to do with his ability to be comfortable with the lean of the bike, and go with it, than anything else. This is not to say there is only one way to sit on a bike, in any style of riding. But it does mean that each rider must find his own way of agreeing with his bike's dynamics and remain in good perspective to the road. And this doesn't mean that you always have to have your head and eyes parallel with the horizon as some riders claim. But it does mean that you may have to push yourself to get out of the "man is an upright beast" mode of thinking and ride with the bike, not against it. It may feel awkward at first but it's the only way to be "in-unit" with the bike. On a professional level most riders do this. John Kocinski is an example of someone in perfect harmony with his machine and Mick Doohan has modified his sit-up push-it-under style of riding over the past couple of years to one that is more in line with the bike.

    Show and Tell

    If you have a rider (or yourself) do a quick flick, side to side, steering maneuver in a parking lot you'll clearly observe them jerking and stuffing the bike underneath themselves in an effort to overwhelm it with good intentions and brute force rather than using correct, effective and efficient steering technique.

    There are other steering quirks you may observe while having someone do this simple show-and-tell parking lot drills. For example, some riders have a sudden hitch that comes at the end of the steering when they have leaned it over as far as they dare. It's a kind of jerking motion initiated from their rigid upper body.

    You may see an exaggerated movement at the hips; that's another variation of their attempt to keep the back erect. Also, look for no movement of the head or extreme movement of it to keep the head erect. A general tenseness of the whole body is common as is lots of side to side motion of the bike. So what's the right thing to do here?

    Good Passenger

    What does a good passenger do? NOTHING. They just sit there and enjoy the ride, practically limp on the saddle. The bike leans over and so does the passenger. Which scenario agrees with motorcycle design: weight on top that is moving or weight that is stable and tracking with it? Motorcycles respond best to a positive and sure hand that does the least amount of changing. You, as a rider, need to do the same thing, basically, NOTHING. Holding your body upright is not doing nothing it is doing something. It is an action you initiate, a tenseness you provide and it is in opposition to the bike's intended design--what it likes.

    More Lean

    There is another technical point here. The more you stay erect and try to push the bike down and away (motocross style riding) the more leaned over you must be to get through the turn. That's a fact. Crotch rocket jockeys hang off their bikes for show but the pros do it to lean their bikes over less. You can counter this adverse affect of having to lean more by simply going with the bike while you turn it, in concert with and congruous to its motion, not against it. There is even an outside chance you may find it feels better and improves your control over the bike and reduces the number of mini-actions needed to corner. There is also a good possibility that this will open the door to conquering your directional fear, whichever form it may take.

    Diagnosis

    Look for one or more of these indications on your "bad" side:
    1. The body is stiff or tense while making turns on the side you don't like, at least more so than on the side you do like.
    2. You don't allow your body to go with the bike's lean on side: You are fighting it and it is fighting you.
    3. The effort to remain perfectly vertical is greater on your bad side.
    4. You will find yourself being less aggressive with the turning process on your bad side.
    5. You will find yourself being shortsighted, looking too close to the bike on that shy side.
    6. You will find yourself making more steering corrections by trying to "dip" the bike into turns or pressing and releasing the bars several times in each turn.
    7. You will notice a tendency to stiff arm the steering.
    8. You will notice you are trying to steer the bike with your shoulders rather than you arms.

    You might find more symptoms but one or more of the above will be present on your bad side.

    Coaching

    The very best and simplest way I've found to cure this tendency to push the bike under is to have someone watch you while you do a quick flick, back and forth, steering drill in a parking lot. You have your friend stand at one point and you ride directly away from him or her as though you were weaving cones and then turn around and ride directly back at them weaving as quickly as you feel comfortable and at a speed you like, usually second gear. In that way your coach is able to see you either going with the bike at each steering change or they will see you and the bike crisscrossing back and forth from each other.

    As the coach, that's what you are looking for, the bike and the rider doing the same action, the rider's body is leaned over the same as the bike at each and every point from beginning of the steering action to the end. There is no trick to seeing this...it is obvious. For example, when they ride away from you, if you see the mirrors moving closer and further away from the rider's body, they are obviously not moving together. That's pushing the bike under rather than good steering. This is also the time to notice which side is the rider's bad side. The back and forth flicks will be hesitant on one side or the other.

    Remedies

    The entire purpose of this exercise is to have the rider get in better communication with his machine--going with it not against it--and not treating it as though it were a foreign object that he is wrestling to stay on top of or muscle it down like a rodeo rider. Often, it simply takes a reminder to loosen-up the upper body. Sometimes the rider needs to lean forward and imagine the tank and he are one and the same. On sportbikes, a full crouch over the tank can sometimes be the answer to link the rider with his bike, giving him a ready reference to it's physical attitude in relation to the road.

    Making sure the rider has some bend in his elbows while leaning forward slightly seems to help. Having them use palm pressure to steer the bike seems to resolve the tendency to muscle the bike over from side to side. Dropping the elbows so the forearm is more level with the tank makes the steering easier and promotes their going with the bike and takes them away from the stiff armed approach to steering. Reminders to relax the shoulders and let the arms do the work of steering also helps.

    End Result

    You stop doing the drill when the rider has the feeling he is in better control of the bike, when he has the idea of how easy and how much less effort it takes to steer; or when he feels comfortable with both rights and lefts. There could be other contributing factors like overly worn tires or a bent frame that would bring a genuine and justified anxiety to a right or left turn but I believe the above three reasons cover everything else and if you are anything like the hundreds of riders I've had do the above drill, you could use a little work on this area even if you don't have a bad side. I hope it helps.

    ? Keith Code 1996-1997
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  • Accepted Answer

    Saturday, November 21 2009, 04:43 PM - #Permalink
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    INERTIA - Resistance to stopping and turning
    [hr] This is something that Dave at RS was talking to me about a few weeks ago at MSRH and I thought it would be a good thing to share with the community.

    Notice the stopping distances and how much more area it takes to stop as your speed increases. It takes 4 times the distance to stop at 60 mph as it does to stop at 30 mph. The faster you go, the greater this curve becomes.

    Although the stopping distances are set from auto's on the graph, the same curve would apply to bikes, just quicker stopping distances.

    Something to keep in mind.

    Ride safe guys & gals.

    http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e280/SimsBrosOffroad/aandbonepage.jpg
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  • Accepted Answer

    Saturday, November 21 2009, 04:44 PM - #Permalink
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    Re: INERTIA - Resistance to stopping and turning
    [hr] According to Charles Falco, the University of Arizona's chair of condensed-matter physics and co-curator of the Guggenheim Museum's The Art of the Motorcycle exhibition, the initial physics lesson to be learned watching a racing bike hurtle into a tight turn is Newton's first law of motion: "Every object persists in its state of rest or uniform motion in a straight line unless it is compelled to change that state by forces impressed on it," explains Falco. To a rider, this means that the faster a motorcycle is going, the less it wants to turn.
    Converting a bike's kinetic energy from straight ahead to turning requires a negotiation with physics in a couple of ways. First, a rider pushes the handlebars slightly away from the direction of the turn. Because the wheels act as gyroscopes, this countersteering leans the bike in the opposite direction (into the turn), which puts the tires at an angle, narrowing what engineers call the contact patch and making the bike easier to turn.
    At the same time, the rider moves off the bike in the direction of the turn. The lean angle of the motorcycle shifts the center of gravity to the side, causing the bike to turn, while the weight redistribution lets the machine stay slightly more upright. At the point of maximum lean required to get through a turn at the highest possible speed, centrifugal force wants to pull the bike machine off the track, and the rider uses traction, gravity, and momentum to stay in the game.
    To explain why the machine moves at all, Falco invokes Newton's second law of motion: A force applied to an object will cause it to accelerate. "This will happen until the rider runs out of track, or other forces become nonnegligible, such as wind resistance," says Falco.
    On some tracks, grand prix motorcycles approaching tight turns must slow from more than 200 mph to around 40 mph. Friction on the brakes (primarily the front brakes) makes this possible. "All that excess energy has to be dissipated by the brakes in the form of heat," Falco says, thus bringing up the law of conservation of matter and energy. Some of this heat is transferred to the hydraulic-brake fluid, which can cause brakes to lose stopping power, with potentially disastrous consequences. Engineers use space age ceramic materials to avoid this problem, and riders become skilled at getting on and off the brakes quickly.
    Successful race riding is a lot like paying taxes: You want to push the rules as far as you can without breaking them. There is a very fine line between optimum cornering and crashing, where outward, downward, and forward forces balance precisely. But rules are rules. "Speaking on behalf of physicists everywhere," Falco declares, "nothing that ever happens on a motorcycle breaks the laws of physics. In fact, motorcycles are excellent examples of just how well physics works."
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